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    *  
    * Click 
    pictures to enlarge; close out of that window to return to this page * * 
    This page is all about the boats  . . .  not people  
    (so don't look for pictures of us here!) 
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    English Harbour, Freemans Bay 
    (southern most anchorage); overlooking Fort 
    Berkeley 
    
    
      
    Used to careen (pull over on side) ships in 1700's to work on 
    bottom 
    
    
      
    Falmouth Harbour: "empty" during races; marinas only 
    partially visible 
    
    
    
      
    Star Wars-ish platinum Syl; lines and most 
    winches are concealed below deck; did not race 
    
    
      
    Why bother with a dinghy...  | 
    
    
    ANTIGUA - APRIL 10, 2004:  We 
    arrived in English Harbour around 9 a.m. after our night passage and anchored in the same 
    area we had previously when we visited 
    last December/January.  We had not expected to still be in the 
    northern Leeward islands, but since we were, we decided we couldn't pass up 
    the  Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta and the renowned 
    Antigua Sailing Week, happening the last 2 weeks of April.  We met 2 
    new cruising couples upon arriving and were invited to Easter dinner 
    onboard.  After spending several days in English Harbour, we 
    moved ARGO over to Falmouth Harbour, which is a much larger, although 
    not quite as scenic, harbor.  This is where most of the classic and race boats are 
    kept.  We anchored just at the edge of the channel, so we have a front 
    row seat for watching all the boats come in and out each day.  It is 
    less than a 10 minute walk between the two harbors and regatta/race 
    activities are located at both, with lots of restaurants and bars in 
    between.  We also walk the docks at the four marinas frequently, getting a very up close 
    look at all these beautiful - and BIG - sailboats.  Unlike St. Maarten, 
    only a few mega-motoryachts here.  We have also met up 
    with old cruising friends, and met many more, most who are also heading 
    south.  A good meeting spot on the dock for racers and cruisers is the 
    Skullduggery bar which serves up the popular Espresso Martini during happy hour 
    (one shot each of espresso, Tia Maria, Cream de Cocoa, Stoli vodka, shake 
    with ice, strain into martini glass). 
    The big 
    serious classic/racing sailboats all have a "mother ship", or support yacht.  
    They travel  together and are usually docked next to each other.  
    (Examples of race boats and their "mother ship" are Ranger & 
    Georgia, Velsheda & Bystander (pictured at right), Chippewa & 
    Arabella, Mari-Cha IV & Mari-Cha III).)  
    These support yachts are usually luxury mega-sailboats and are used to house 
    and feed the crew, which typically may be 25 or more people.  It is cheaper for 
    the owner of the race boat to own a second boat for this purpose, than it is 
    for him to pay for lodging and restaurants ashore.  These boats 
    typically have a skeleton crew that stays with the boat full time.  The 
    owner flies in qualified racing crew from all over.  The racing talent 
    here is significant, many coming from America's Cup crews, etc.  The 
    majority of race boats here are UK and USA flagged, although the racers are 
    also German, French, Italian, Canadian, Spanish and Swiss.   
    Whereas the Heineken Regatta was "it's all about the beer" 
    (the Heineken motto), 
    here it's all about the free/cheap rum, t-shirts and coveted red caps.  The 
    limited number of red baseball caps cannot be bought - the only way to get 
    one was to attend the kick-off beach party and have a ticket (which takes 
    some resourcefulness), but we did manage to get our caps.  It is said 
    that the Antigua Sailing Week caps go for $200 - $250 on Ebay.  There are 
    regatta/race related parties almost every afternoon or evening, some on the 
    various beaches.  We were also invited to the Tot Club for our 
    initiation.  Back in the old days, British sailors were given a ration 
    of rum each day.  When it was discontinued, they rebelled and this 
    tradition was born.  Everyday at 6:00 p.m., members stand in a circle, 
    a toast is made to the Queen and then a "tot" of rum (Pussers) is consumed 
    straight away.  And so we did.   
    Most of the races started just outside of Falmouth Harbour 
    over a 2 or 3 hour period.  With binoculars, VHF and cooler, we hiked 
    up the hills to different spots, finding early on our favorite vantage 
    point, near the water's edge under a  shade tree, usually right in 
    front of a start line.  The boats would parade past us coming out and 
    "warm up" just in front of us, and we could hear the winches grinding away. 
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    Watching the mega race  | 
    
      
    Antigua Mega Yacht Challenge for sailing yachts over 
    100 ft. took place the first week, consisting of 3 races.  Quite 
    impressive seeing all these huge sailboats, as we hiked up above  the fort in English Harbour 
    to view.  Yes, many of the sailboats that compete in the Classic Yacht 
    and Sailing Week races are also over 
    100 ft.  | 
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
     
    
    
      
    Visione,  Morning Glory's mother ship, 
    raced in Mega-Yacht Challenge (specks on deck are people)  | 
   
  
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    Tall ships racing 
    
    
    
       
    
    Tree of Life (ctr) needed lots of wind to move it's 
    massive wooden  hull 
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
      
    
      
    
    
      
    Some oldies but goodies 
    
    
      
    Old classic Camin,  Race Committee boat   | 
    
     
      
        
        
        
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        | Wooden spars | 
        Big | 
        Wooden spars | 
        Old Hinckley | 
       
     
      
    
    Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (www.antiguaclassics.com) is 
    not only for the genuine classic boats built years ago, but also for the 
    more modern vessels built in the traditional spirit with the classic lines, and for the traditional workboats 
    of the past that are now sailing as yachts.  It was difficult telling 
    the difference between the older and newer yachts.  Either way, they 
    were very impressive.  There were three classic J-boats, one of which 
    was built in 1928, Cambria (K4),  the famous Ranger (J5) (replica) and
    Velsheda (J/K7).  There were several tall 
    ships that graced the race course for the initial race.  There were 
    also many other authentic classics, some dating almost 100 years old and in 
    immaculate condition (at least on the outside).  There were 58 boats 
    participating for the 3 days of racing, with the three J-boats doing an 
    additional race of their own. 
     
    Racing conditions started off with light winds on the 
    first day, but picked up for the rest of the series.  The race series 
    ended with a parade of boats through historic English Harbour, a very 
    fitting finale for the Classic Yacht Regatta. 
      
      
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        Ranger, 
        classic J-boat  (replica), original scuttled after war, supposedly 
        only surviving part being the transom which is serving as a bar in 
        somebody's house. | 
       
      
        
        
        
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        Sleek | 
        
        Smiley face painted on  bottom | 
        
        
        Georgia, Ranger's 
        mother ship | 
       
      
        
        
        
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        Dozens of dorades ... | 
        
        Dual controls, computer screens built in 
        below | 
        
        Coffee-grinders out of view | 
       
     
     
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      Classic J-boats: 
    
    
    
      
    
     
    
    
    J-boats Velsheda (L) and Ranger (R); 
    (Windrose (C)) 
    
    
    
       
    Cambria (1928), pretty "little" 
    J- boat 
      
    L-R: Windrose, Velsheda,
    Ranger, Cambria 
    
    
    
       
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
      
    
    
    
    Windrose 
    (not a J) 
    
    
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    Morning Glory, 1st place 
    
      
    
    
    
      
    Pyewacket, owned by Roy Disney      | 
    
    Antigua Sailing Week (www.sailingweek.com) is the 
    most popular of all races in the Caribbean, attracting several hundred boats 
    for the 5-day race series.  Racers tend to be a bit more serious than 
    the Classic racers.  There are 19 race classes including six 
    classes for bareboats (charter boats).  The most impressive class 
    includes the high-tech boats (sorry, I don't have any close-ups of them) Morning Glory (German) and Pyewacket 
    (USA) with the canting 
    keels that we saw at the Heineken Regatta in St. Maarten; and the new 
    Mari-Chi IV, a sleek 140' (20' draft, 32' beam, 146' schooner masts height) 
    which is the fastest monohull in the world, crossing the Atlantic in a 
    record setting 6 days last year.  Mari-Cha IV came back in one 
    day with a chunk missing off the bottom of their plumb bow - must have been an 
    exciting start!  We have seen broken masts, booms, fiberglass, fingers 
    and legs - just more reasons not to race!  Deborah was at the hospital 
    giving her rare-type blood at two in the morning for a racer seriously 
    injured (interestingly, Antiguans don't have certain blood types so their 
    blood bank was of no use in this case).  
     The dual between Morning Glory and 
    Pyewacket continued here, with Morning Glory coming in 1st 
    in class and in fleet.  Mari-Cha IV didn't do too well, probably 
    because it's strength is in longer stretches, whereas these race courses 
    consisted of a lot of tacking/jibing.  (It did win the 
    Guadeloupe-to-Antigua race earlier this week setting a record.)  Our 
    cruiser-friend-turned-racer, Jeff & Wendy on Yocahu, a Swan 48' 
    sporting 2 new hi-tech sails, did quite well coming in 1st several days.  
    In spite of not finishing one of the races due to a crew injury, they still 
    managed to finish 5th in class.  Jeff was still excited knowing that he 
    probably could have come in first.  He's now talking about doing the 
    race circuit in the Mediterranean this summer.     
    There must be about 90 bareboats racing here.  It is 
    a scary sight seeing all these charter boats - I can say that now since 
    we're cruisers - whether they're racing or anchoring next to us.  It's 
    even scarier when they're flying a French flag.  That aside, we have 
    thought how this Sailing Week would make for a great T.A.S.S. charter trip.  
    Most of the charter boats are from Sunsail (brought in from their many 
    Caribbean bases) and some from the Moorings, and people from a variety of 
    nationalities.   The bareboats have a special Bareboat Challenge 
    race of their own on the last day, taking the top three finishers from each 
    class. 
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    Mari-Cha IV; patch over race damage visible lower 
    bow 
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
      
    
    Mari-Cha IV, with it's 2 masts, dwarfs other 
    turbo-sleds including Pyewacket & Morning Glory 
    
      
    
    
    
      
    Class of bareboats racing  | 
   
  
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    The Sailing Week ended up with a big 
    night of partying (we started it off with the Tot Club toast) and ended up 
    at a huge dock party hosted by Chippewa and it's mother ship Arabella.  The dock in between the 
    two boats had sizeable blow-up swimming pools full of iced-down beer and 
    huge fishing coolers full of rum punch, and big speakers on Arabella's deck.  
    Even though Chippewa did finish 1st in class and took some other 
    honors, this is apparently an annual event for them.  The following 
    night was a gigantic local event, with a carnival atmosphere of games, 
    marching police in formation, parking lot full of vendor BBQs and other food 
    and drink, and they were still going strong at 4:00 in the morning (as we 
    could hear all too well from bed).  The next day race and support boats 
    started leaving, heading off to the next race, Virgin Islands, we think.  
    As the big boats leave the dock, they each sound their loud bass horns, 
    and the others respond in kind repeatedly creating a huge symphonic farewell 
    accolade that goes on for minutes.   Cruisers are also starting to 
    head out, too (but we don't get the big-horn fanfare), and Antigua will then 
    be left to the locals until after hurricane season.    
    In between race 
    weeks, Deborah has kept busy with filing an  
    amended tax return, catching 
    up on a whopping 80 hours 
    
    of CPE 
    for her CPA license, and going through a thousand digital pictures - that's 
    the good thing/bad thing about digital cameras - for website 
    update (usually takes her 3 
    "work" days for each update, this time 4 days).  See, cruising isn't all about sitting 
    around drinking boat drinks all day long!  Steve has read several more 
    books in the meantime.  Thank heavens, there 
    
    
     have been no new boat projects to do here 
    (I think what we did in St. Maarten should last us a year!).  Although 
    we have immensely enjoyed the regattas and socializing with cruisers, racers 
    and locals here and in St. Maarten over the past 4 months, we are ready to 
    move south to Guadeloupe and beyond.  We are looking forward to finding some nice quiet anchorages where we can get away from it 
    all for a while and give our livers a well-deserved rest!   I 
    think it's time we start studying our French again . . .    . 
    . .   . . .  as we sail to
    
    Guadeloupe . . . 
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
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